Sunday, November 16, 2014

November 16: Off season in Charlevoix

Kathy calls me, “Do you want to take a road trip to Charlevoix?”  I had planned to stay put in Montreal.  But going to Charlevoix is almost staying put. 

This UNESCO protected area is only a five hour drive away.  The region is most alluring when crowned in autumn hues.  But off-season visits have their own charm—no crowds, no ferry line-ups, no traffic jams.  Thanks to Kathy’s travel agent discount, we stay in style at the Fairmont Manoir Richelieu.  Malbaie is like an old dame—all old world charm, welcoming summer visitors for years, including U.S. president Taft.  Baie Saint Paul on the other hand, is an extrovert, unafraid to show its colours and whimsy.  Artists have been taking up residence here for years—A.Y. Jackson and Clarence Gagnon, among others.  The first Cirque du Soleil performance was held in town.

Local art and artisans are highly promoted and lauded.  They go far beyond the tableaux.  Laiteries Charlevoix and Dufour offer some excellent cheeses, served on chewy ciabattas and airy croissants from nearby Chacun Son Pain bakery and washed down with Pedneault's iced apple cider.  Île aux Coudres' sugar pies are decorated with cinnamony swirls. 

We are lucky.  Belugas and whales are spotted where the Saguenay fjord meets the St. Lawrence River.



I see autumn colours not on the rolling Charlevoix hills, but rather on a captivating Sacha painting of Montreal laneways.  I found my souvenir of this short but memorable interlude.

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